(Published in Pacific Pearl magazine december 2022)
Winter has finally arrived to Mazatlán. Yes, it’s true! It might not feel like ‘winter’ to those of you who come from cooler climates, but as a full-time local resident you can definitely feel the temperature shift from sizzling hot to pleasantly warm. There is another way how locals know that the winter season has started. It doesn’t have to do with falling leaves or changing tides. The ultimate proof of winter in Mazatlán is the appearance of Atole vendors on street corners around town. It might sound like the weirdest way to declare wintertime, but this local specialty is only served during the colder months of the year. You will ask: what is Atole (pronounced: ah-TOH-leh)? It’s a hot corn-based beverage sweetened with raw cane sugar. The ancient civilizations of Mexico already prepared this hot corn pudding and called it ‘atolli’. It is known to give you lots of energy. Nowadays, you can find Atole flavored with cinnamon, tamarind, guava or other fruits. In Mazatlan the most common flavor is Atole de Pinole, which is roasted ground corn. Its taste can be compared to salted caramel. Las Atoleras (female atole vendors) always sell their hot atole with sweet fried corn Gorditas. Don’t confuse these gorditas with their savory counterpart from central Mexico. Mazatlan’s gorditas are made with corn flour, wheat flour, baking soda and sugar. It’s fascinating and mouth-watering to see the preparation. The gorditas look like regular tortillas, but once they are dropped into the hot oil they puff up to triple their size. The atoleras skillfully flip them over and make the process look effortless. Getting hot atole with a freshly made gordita will keep you satiated for several hours. Are you curious to give this local specialty a try? It’s important to know that Atole de Pinole is only available early in the morning (5 - 9 a.m.) or after sunset (6 – 9 p.m.). You can get your Atole per cup or liter, the gorditas are sold per piece. Most customers get their Atole to go on their way to work or back home. But if you want to catch the latest neighborhood gossip or brush up on your Spanish, get a seat at the stand. You can find the Atoleras on the curb of Gutierrez Najera Street close to the Juan Carrasco market or on Aleman Street near the petrol station. If you’re ready to learn more about Mazatlan’s culinary scene, make sure to book your seats for one of the Flavor Teller food tours. #flavortellerfoodtour #flavorteller #mazatlanfoodtour #foodtourmazatlan
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Flavor TellerMaaike Hoekstra has lived in Mexico for over 15 years. She is passionate about Mexican culture and food. Here are the stories and recipes she finds along the way. Archives
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