Getting your vitamin Sea in Mazatlan

(Published in Pacific Pearl's April 2019 issue)
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If I ask you what Mazatlan’s traditional ceviche is, nine out of ten people would say shrimp ceviche. You know the one with shrimp, cucumber, tomato, onion, cilantro and lime juice. Even though this might be the most famous version, there is a lesser known ceviche that is often overlooked.  You may have seen it at the fish monger or on a street cart, with its striking orange color. It is Mackerel ceviche or Ceviche de Sierra in Spanish.

In Semana Santa (Holy Week) mazatlecos will go to the beach in their hundreds. Not because they can’t go any of the other 51 weeks, but because it’s…. Tradition! Part of this tradition are the snacks that are packed to camp out on the beach for a whole day. Obviously the beverage of choice is our beloved Pacifico beer. Besides the beer you will also find home-made mackerel ceviche served on a wheat-based Duro toast or on a corn tostada. Mackerel ceviche is prepared with ground mackerel (ask for it at the fish monger), shredded carrot, finely chopped onion, cilantro, lime juice, salt and pepper. Each family has their own ‘perfect’ recipe with a unique twist. Some will leave out the carrot and put cucumber, others will add mayonnaise and peas to the ceviche (really that’s a must-try!). I would go as far to say that mazatlecos are born with the skill to make at least three different kinds of ceviche. Whenever you organize a potluck dinner, be ready to try at least four different ceviches between shrimp ceviche, mackerel ceviche, aguachile or sashimi tuna. You see how it isn’t hard to keep a seafood diet in Mazatlan!

Most people turn their nose up when I say mackerel ceviche. You think of the smelly oily fish you get back home. The trick to a tasty mackerel ceviche is curing the fish twice in lime juice, to get rid of the fishy flavor. Now you could get cooking and whip up a mackerel ceviche yourself, but it’s more fun to eat at a traditional marisqueria (seafood restaurant). Here are a few popular spots!

• Mariscos Renteria “Los Liguillas” (since 1950) – Opening hours: 11.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m. After decades this continues to be a food truck on the corner of Carnaval and Angel Flores in Centro.
• Marisqueria El Changuirongo – 21 de marzo #1326, half a block from CFE offices, Centro. Opening hours: 9.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m.
• Maricos El Beto – Sonora #829, Colonia Alameda, on the corner with Avenida la Marina. Opening hours: 9.30 a.m. – 6.00 p.m.