Sipping like a local – horchata, cebada and pinole

(Published in the Pacifc Pearl Magazine July 2025)

​By Maaike Hoekstra

How do you get ready for summer in Mazatlan? You might decide to turn on the AC, look for shade at the hottest hours of the day and wear comfy light clothes. Obviously you will drink more water, lemonade or Jamaica hibiscus ice tea. How about sipping some Horchata rice water or our local favorite Cebada barley water with notes of cacao and cinnamon?

You can find lots of grain-based beverages around Mexico. Horchata rice water is the most well-known with its unmistakable cinnamon flavor. Did you know that the word “horchata” comes from the latin word hordeata (made with hordeum vulgare or barley)? Its origins trace back to 10th century southern Spain under Arab rule. With time the Spanish spread it to other parts of the world, using the available ingredients of each region, barley was substituted with other grains. These all have one thing in common: its milky white color although it is made with different ingredients. Nowadays you can find instant powder versions of horchata rice water and cebada barley water. A fun foodie fact: barley water is sometimes jokingly called Lodo (mud), because of its chocolate-brown color.

What is Mazatlan's Cebada drink?

Outside the Pino Suarez market you can find a family-run Cebada cart that has been around since 1934. That makes it one of the oldest street vendors in downtown. It was started by don Eduardo Toledo who arrived in Mazatlan as a deckhand. He was fed up of the sea and decided to settle down. Onboard the ship another deckhand had taught him how to make barley water. This was a totally new drink in Mazatlan and he decided to build the business from scratch. Today his grandson Rafa and great-grand children Rafa and Nancy are in charge of the two carts around the Mercado. “We make our cebada barley water from scratch with a unique twist. That’s the secret behind our success. You can buy small, medium or liter sizes as well as the barley mix so you can prepare it at home. The only thing you need to add is water, sugar to taste and a splash of evaporated Carnation milk.” A fun fact about their cart: it is the same horse cart with metal wheels that has been used since 1934. Nothing beats quality products like Don Rafa’s Cebada made with love. You can find them daily between 9.00 a.m. and 5.00 p.m. on the sidewalk of Melchor Ocampo street in front of the market or on the sidewalk of Aquiles Serdan street between Leandro Valle and Canizales street.

“Vamos al grano”, let’s get to the point: how difficult is it to make your own horchata? It is actually surprisingly easy to make your home-made version.

How to make Horchata
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INGREDIENTS:

• 300 gr (10 oz) long-grain rice
• 8 cups water
• 10 cm (4 inch) cinnamon stick
• 2 cups milk
• Sugar to taste

Place the rice in a big bowl with 4 cups water and leave to soak for two hours.
Crumble the cinnamon stick with your hands and toast lightly in a small skillet.
Drain the rice and grind finely in the blender with the cinnamon and milk. Strain the mixture over a pitcher and dissolve with 4 cups cold water. Sweeten to taste with sugar.

Pinole – the ancient super drink

You may have heard of the Rarámuri indigenous people from the Copper Canyons in Chihuahua. The name Rarámuri means “foot runners” and they are known for their ability to run extraordinarily long distances. The Rarámuri use a roasted ground corn beverage called Pinole as the energy source for their impressive endurance. It is usually seasoned with cocoa beans, cinnamon or anise seeds. It tastes like caramel popcorn in powder. The name comes from the Nahuatl word pinolli meaning cornmeal. The Pinole mixture has lots of fiber and complex carbohydrates, which are two helpful nutrients for keeping energy levels up.

Back in the summer of 2023 I experienced first-hand how useful Pinole is. At the Copper Canyon 63km Ultra trail marathon some of my fellow competitors were Rarámuri people. In their traditional huarache sandals with soles made of recycled tire treads and their traditional white cotton loincloth or colorful skirts, they outran most of us by many hours. Each of the hydration points deep in the Copper Canyon had nothing else but water, Pinole water and some fruit. I must admit that the Pinole didn’t look appetizing at all. But after 8+ hours and insistence from seasoned runners I decided to give it a try. It wasn’t too sweet, but I immediately felt the energy boost. Now I can proudly say that I conquered the Copper Canyon thanks to Pinole. Find your pinole at local spice shops in the market and prepare your Mexican power drink with water or milk and sugar to taste.

How to book a Flavor Teller tour?
If you’re ready to learn more about Mazatlan’s culinary scene, make sure to check out www.flavorteller.com and save your seats for one of the Flavor Teller food tours.